‘Varenyky are the new pasta’: Naples chef explains Italy’s obsession with Ukrainian cuisine

He left the Ternopil region more than 15 years ago, but has preserved and elevated Ukrainian culture through cuisine, atmosphere, and community. Mykola Oleksiv is the owner of the restaurant “Anastasia” in Naples, which has become more than just a culinary destination — it’s a place of gathering, remembrance, and strength for both Ukrainians and locals.

His borscht, deruny, and varenyky surprise Italians; his ribs impress them; and evenings with Ukrainian music move them to tears.

In a candid interview with RBC-Ukraine, he spoke about why he refuses to adapt borscht, how the war has changed the taste of traditional dishes, how Ukrainian hospitality shocks Europeans, and why a restaurant abroad can become much more than just a business.

– Mykola, how did you start building the menu at Anastasia? Were there any dishes you had to adapt to Italian tastes — and on the other hand, which ones remained "sacredly Ukrainian"?

– The menu at Anastasia started with a desire to present authentic Ukrainian cuisine — one with deep roots and rich flavor and soul. At the same time, we understood that Italy is a country with its own culinary traditions, where people are used to certain flavor profiles and presentation styles.

That’s why we had to take into account the expectations of the Italian audience, where not only the ingredients matter but also the presentation, aesthetics, and even the lightness of the dishes.

However, some items — such as borscht and varenyky — we deliberately left “sacred.” We didn’t change the recipe because these dishes are part of our identity and culture, which should not be subject to compromise.

Other dishes — like deruny, holubtsi, and salads — we slightly modernized by adding local ingredients or presenting them in unusual forms to make them more approachable for the Italian guest, while preserving their authenticity.

As a result, the menu became a balance between tradition and modernity, which allowed our restaurant to become a unique cultural space.

– Were there ingredients you had to "reinvent" in order to prepare Ukrainian dishes in Italy? Which products caused the most difficulties?

– Of course, there were certain challenges with ingredients. Ukrainian cuisine often relies on unique products — such as homemade sour cream, specific types of salo, cottage cheese, natural sausages, or even certain vegetables that are not widely available in Italy.

For example, it was difficult to find high-quality smoked products with the specific flavor we needed, as smoking in Italy follows a different process. Also, some vegetables and grains differ in taste and texture, which requires adapting the recipes accordingly.

We had to experiment: search for suppliers, collaborate with local farmers, and sometimes even replace ingredients with similar ones that have a local twist.

At the same time, this was an interesting process — to "reinvent" the dishes in a way that preserved their essence while making them tasty and understandable to the Italian guest.

– Can you compare the quality and availability of products in Ukraine and Italy?

– Comparing the quality of products in Ukraine and Italy is quite difficult, as each country has its own advantages and specifics.

In Italy, farming is highly developed. Many local products are of excellent quality, and this is evident in their freshness and flavor. However, quality and price do not always equal accessibility.

In Ukraine, many natural products — especially agricultural ones — are of very good quality and more affordable. In Italy, the general purchasing power is higher, but the cost of products, especially imported ones, is significantly higher.

So the claim that everything is cheaper in Europe is a myth. In fact, in Italy, most products are more expensive — particularly when it comes to quality and naturalness.

Another point is that in Ukraine, it’s often possible to find more "homemade" products directly from the source, without intermediaries, which affects both their price and freshness. Everything depends on the category of goods and the region.

– Are there elements in Italian cuisine that closely resemble Ukrainian dishes, which you use to build a kind of "culinary bridge" between the two cuisines?

– Yes, I believe many Italian dishes share common traits with Ukrainian cuisine — above all, a passion for homemade, simple, and sincere flavors.

For example, Italian pasta, risotto, or polenta are also traditional staple dishes that have regional variations and are made with a love for local ingredients.

We often use this fact to build a "bridge" between the two cultures — for example, by adding Italian vegetables, herbs, or spices to Ukrainian recipes, making the dishes more relatable for the local audience without losing their authenticity.

This allows guests to more easily engage with our cuisine and also introduces them to new flavors in a familiar form. This approach helps foster cultural dialogue and promote Ukrainian gastronomy around the world.

Restaurateur Mykola Oleksiv: Many Italian dishes have a lot in common with Ukrainian cuisine (photo provided by the restaurateur)

— Which Ukrainian dishes are most popular among Italians?

— Over the years, I’ve seen a growing interest from Italians. When we first started, there were just a few. Now, Italians make up nearly 30% of our guests — and they’re thrilled! They love varenyky, deruny, and borshch. Many of them order the same dishes every time because they know how good they are.

Meat dishes are also in high demand — shashlik, ribs. They like that we use high-quality local meat but prepare it in a Ukrainian way, with our own marinades and sauces.

Our salads, served with a modern twist, are also well received. We're developing a contemporary Ukrainian cuisine concept — refined presentation, new combinations — and Italians really respond to it.

Presentation is everything. If a dish is beautiful, delicious, and served with heart, people appreciate it. We never just place food on the table — we tell a story, explain what it is, and why it’s made that way. And guests are genuinely interested.

— What surprises Italians most? Which Ukrainian dish has been the hardest to explain?

— Varenyky! You could say it’s our signature dish. With potato, cabbage, cherries — they’re always a hit. Deruny are another top favorite. Every evening we sell as many deruny as varenyky.

Borshch is always among the best-sellers. Even first-time guests often say, "Can I have the same thing again tomorrow?" Shashlik is especially popular — juicy, well-marinated meat really resonates with them. And our ribs… that’s a whole story. Some clients come back just for them. They say, "We want your ribs. We haven’t had anything like them anywhere else."

But perhaps it’s not only about the dishes themselves — it’s the whole atmosphere. Italians are genuinely surprised by our hospitality. They say, "Here, we can sit, enjoy dinner, listen to music — and no one rushes us out!"

We often host evenings with Ukrainian music, and sometimes even dancing. Italians love it — it’s a new experience for them. They’re used to everything running on a timer: eat and leave. With us, it’s like being at home — you can relax, chat, and enjoy the moment. That really appeals to them.

And another thing — they’re truly impressed that we hold on to our culture, that we don’t forget it. On the contrary, we share it with others. That gives everything we do a deeper meaning.

— Do you ever find yourself explaining that borshch isn’t just soup, but part of a cultural identity?

— Absolutely. I often emphasize that borshch is a dish that carries the history, traditions, and emotions of our people. For many Italians, it’s a revelation — they’re amazed at how complex and layered it is, and how much symbolism it holds.

The reaction is usually very positive. People realize it’s more than just food — they value the chance to experience cultural depth through flavor. For me, this is essential: using food to tell Ukraine’s story in a simple, relatable way.

For many Italians, Ukrainian borshch is a revelation (photo provided by the restaurateur)

— Are Italians ready to embrace Ukrainian cuisine as equal to their own in terms of cultural depth?

— Italians take great pride in their culinary traditions, so it’s not easy for them to accept something new without truly understanding it. But Ukrainian cuisine — with its unique character, rich flavors, and deep cultural roots — is gradually gaining recognition.

Guests who take the time to explore our dishes and traditions begin to appreciate Ukrainian food not just as something exotic, but as a fully developed culinary culture with a rich history.

Of course, it’s a gradual process, and continued efforts to promote it are important. But over time, Italians are starting to see Ukrainian cuisine as something worthy of respect—on par with their own.

— What lesser-known Italian dishes would you recommend Ukrainian tourists try?

— For Ukrainians visiting Italy, I’d suggest trying some local dishes that may seem simple at first glance, but really capture the soul of Italian cooking.

Take minestrone, for example — a hearty vegetable soup that, in some ways, resembles our borshch, but with Italian character, rich in vegetables and fragrant herbs.

Polenta is another dish worth trying. It’s a cornmeal-based side, often served in different textures — from soft and creamy to crispy — and could be seen as a counterpart to some traditional Ukrainian garnishes.

I’d also recommend focaccia, an oven-baked flatbread with a variety of toppings. It’s a staple of home-style Italian cooking and widely loved across the country.

And of course, Italian cheeses. They’re quite different from ours and can help visitors understand the local food culture better, while also offering a chance to compare familiar and unfamiliar flavors.

— If we’re going down that road, then name some Italian dishes that are seriously overrated in Ukraine.

— In Ukraine, certain Italian dishes are often met with great enthusiasm, but at times this enthusiasm becomes exaggerated, especially when it comes to classics like pasta carbonara or risotto.

These are undoubtedly delicious and iconic dishes, but they are not always prepared in Ukraine the way they are traditionally made in Italy — often due to the lack of authentic ingredients or a misunderstanding of traditional techniques. Many Ukrainian restaurants serve these dishes quickly, in simplified versions, and without the finesse that makes them unique.

As a result, guests may come away with the impression that "Italian cuisine is just pasta," when in fact authentic Italian gastronomy is far richer and more diverse.

It is important to understand that Italian cuisine is not just about individual recipes, but also about a philosophy of cooking, respect for seasonal ingredients, and craftsmanship. So I would encourage Ukrainians to explore the regional diversity of Italy and not reduce the entire cuisine to just a few popular dishes.

— Fried spaghetti and pineapple pizza — do these dishes really annoy Italians, or is that just a meme stereotype?

— It’s actually one of those stories that blends real gastronomic passion with humor. Many Italians take their cuisine very seriously and regard it as part of their national identity. That’s why pineapple pizza is seen almost as a kind of culinary "sacrilege" that breaks all the rules.

They often react to it with irony, or even slight indignation, believing that pineapple has no place in the classic flavor profile of Italian pizza.

As for fried spaghetti — it’s more of a culinary oddity or meme that Italians laugh about rather than take seriously as a dish. They believe pasta should not be overloaded with oil or fat, as sometimes happens in certain versions, and that simplicity and the quality of ingredients are key.

So while these dishes do come up in food conversations, they’re usually used as humorous examples that highlight just how seriously Italians view their gastronomic heritage.

In Italy, Mykola Oleksiv opened a Ukrainian cuisine restaurant "Anastasia" (photo provided by the restaurateur)

— Have you noticed any changes in the taste or demand for Ukrainian dishes after February 24?

— Since the start of the full-scale war in Ukraine, interest in our cuisine abroad has risen sharply. People began to view Ukrainian food not simply as something exotic or new, but as an important cultural symbol — a way to support the country and its people in a difficult time.

We noticed that requests became more thoughtful — guests no longer just wanted to try borscht or varenyky, but wanted to understand why these particular dishes matter to us. This gave our cuisine a new, deeper meaning and, at the same time, encouraged us to more carefully observe traditions and serve food with respect for its history.

Tastes also shifted: dishes with deep, homemade roots, which were once considered "just food," gained popularity. The sense of unity and support has strengthened the value of our dishes and made the cuisine a powerful cultural bridge.

— Has the image of Ukrainians in the eyes of Italians changed since the start of the full-scale war?

— Yes, the perception of Ukrainians in Italy has undergone a complete transformation in recent years. Previously, we were mostly seen through the lens of migration or tourism, but with the onset of the war, we became a symbol of resilience, courage, and strength of spirit. Italians began to take greater interest in our culture and history and to support us not only with words but through concrete actions.

This new reality has brought us a new level of respect and empathy, which is especially important for fostering understanding and integration into society. At the same time, it has given Ukrainians in Italy a sense of unity and support that inspires us to continue sharing our culture and cuisine, building a positive image of the country, even in difficult times.

— What has been the most emotional moment in your restaurant?

— Time and again, people from other regions of Italy come to us to experience the warmth and support of a Ukrainian space. For many, our restaurant has become not just a place to eat, but a home where they can find familiar flavors and emotional comfort.

The most emotional moments, without a doubt, have been the charity evenings when many compatriots and local residents came together to support Ukraine. We’ve welcomed people who traveled from other cities — not just to eat, but to be among their own. They said: "We saw online that there’s a piece of Ukraine here, and we wanted to feel that warmth." Words like these are deeply touching.

To us, it confirms that a restaurant is more than just a place where food is prepared. It’s a place of gathering, support, and community.

One of the most emotional events took place when we organized our first charity concert in support of Ukraine. People cried during the performances, sang the national anthem together, embraced one another, and expressed gratitude for the atmosphere. It felt as though we were all one family, scattered by fate but reunited at a shared table.

And there was a moment I still remember very clearly. An elderly Italian man came in. He didn’t order anything — he simply walked over to the donation box, placed 200 euros inside, and said: "This is for the children in Kharkiv." He didn’t even want us to record his name. In moments like that, you truly realize: humanity has no nationality.

Restaurateur Mykola Oleksiv: After February 24, interest in Ukrainian cuisine abroad grew (photo provided by the restaurateur)

— What does it mean for you to make your restaurant an example? Who do you want it to be for: Ukrainians abroad or Italians discovering Ukraine?

— For me, it means creating not just a place where delicious food is served, but a true cultural center that combines tradition, hospitality, and modernity. It is a place where Ukrainians abroad can feel at home, reconnect with their roots, and find support. At the same time, it serves as a gateway for Italians and all guests who want to learn about Ukraine through its culinary heritage, traditions, and personal stories.

I want our restaurant to be a bridge between cultures, inspiring mutual understanding and respect, opening new horizons for dialogue and cooperation. This is not just a business; it is a mission that gives meaning to every day.

— What do you mean by "Ukrainian hospitality" abroad?

— Ukrainian hospitality, to me, is much more than politeness or offering food and drinks. It is the true art of creating an atmosphere where every guest feels at home, where warmth, attention to detail, and sincerity are present in every gesture.

Abroad, far from their homeland, hospitality takes on a special meaning — it is a way to share a piece of Ukraine, its soul, through simple things: homemade dishes, a genuine smile, a readiness to listen and support.

For us, it is also a responsibility — to be a bridge that helps people better understand and appreciate our culture. That is why Ukrainian hospitality in our restaurant is not only about food but also about creating a family atmosphere where everyone feels welcome and valued.

— Which symbol or image do you consider the most accurate visual representation of modern Ukraine?

— If I were to choose a symbol that best reflects the spirit and modernity of Ukraine, I would choose the sunflower.

This flower is not only a symbol of our land and sun but also of resilience, vitality, and hope. The sunflower, always turning towards the light, reminds us of our people who, despite difficulties, remain optimistic and determined. Visually simple yet powerful, it represents the strength found in every Ukrainian today.

For me, this image speaks of warmth, hospitality, and a continuous desire to move forward while preserving traditions and values.

— What taste or aroma feels like home to you?

— For me, home is the taste of freshly made borscht with homemade sour cream and the smell of baked goods filling the entire kitchen. These scents are connected to warm family moments, childhood, and a sense of safety. I especially remember the aroma of dumplings my mother prepared for holidays and the mint tea that always helped calm me down.

These aromas are, for me, the true code of home — something I can recreate even far abroad — and each time they bring me back to my roots, filling my heart with warmth and inspiration. It is through these tastes and smells that I feel Ukraine is always with me, no matter where I am.