'Weapon in your wardrobe': Ukrainian stylist explains fashion's new trend
Halyna Denysiuk explained the change in Ukrainian style identity (photo provided by the stylist)
The war has changed not only Ukraine but our style, too. Fashion is no longer about trends or cuts; it has become a powerful voice and a visual statement of identity. Ukrainian stylist Halyna Denysiuk told RBC-Ukraine how vyshyvanka became armor and military style turned into a symbol of resistance.
"After February 24, our style is no longer about cuts or seasons; it is about a stance. Ukrainians no longer dress just to 'look nice'. We dress to emphasize who we are and what our identity is," Denysiuk said.
Vyshyvanka is not about folklore but about resilience
Earlier, vyshyvanka was often associated with holidays, but today it has become a symbol of strength, rootedness, and resistance.
"My clients often write to me: 'I want a vyshyvanka that is restrained and laconic but still noticeable from afar.' This is our new aesthetic, not to shout but to sound loud," Halyna said.
Modern Ukrainian brands work with linen, chiffon, embroidery, and runes through the lens of relevant minimalism, with no excess decoration but with powerful energy in every stitch.
"A modern vyshyvanka is no longer an ethno-boutique item, it is a full part of the wardrobe worn with a blazer, jeans, even in the gym. It is like armor, it "carries" us when we no longer have the strength to carry ourselves," the stylist explained.
If earlier the vyshyvanka was often associated with holidays, today it has become a symbol of strength, rootedness, and resistance (photo: Getty Images)
Military style as a fashion statement, not camouflage
Camouflage, khaki green, coarse fabrics, tractor-soled shoes, cargo cuts. The military trend is still here, but with a different message.
"It is not about a soldier's aesthetic. It is about showing that we are in the fight, even if in civilian clothes. That we are with our people. Fashion has become a stance. And it is expressed not only in voice but also in gaze, posture, and, of course, in clothing," Halyna said.
Trendy looks have become 'hardened': layering, leather, metal hardware, heavy shoes. This is not just fashionable; it visualizes the nation's mood.
Ukrainian designers on global runways: New fashion with heart
Today, RUSLAMBAGINSKIY, BEVZA, FROLOV, Ksenia Schnaider, GUDU, Vita Kin, Elena Burenina, and IENKI IENKI are not just Ukrainian brands. They are our voices on the global fashion map.
"I am proud that Ukrainian designers are not chasing world clichés. They convey their truth through chevrons, patriotic symbols, hand embroidery, and quotations. Ukrainian fashion no longer tries to please. It dictates a style with soul," the stylist said.
At Paris Fashion Week or in New York shop windows, there are embroidery elements, fabrics from Ukraine, looks inspired by Carpathian motifs, military forms, or the shapes of female strength. This is fashion with nerve and deep meaning.
New reality: Style as weapon
Denysiuk said that over the past two years, the appearance of Ukrainians abroad has ceased to be neutral. We are recognizable. That is why every detail of our appearance is communication.
"When I wear an embroidered shirt on a London street, it is not clothing, it is a marker. It says: I am Ukrainian. This is where I am from, this is who I represent. And there are millions like me," Halyna shared.
Vyshyvanka is not about folklore but about resilience, says Halyna Denysiuk (photo provided by the stylist)
Trends dictated by Ukraine
- Restrained patriotism. Blue and yellow details: a thread on a sleeve, hardware, manicure, cap, print.
- Military with a feminine code. Military jackets, but with a waist accent, tops styled like ballistic vests, combined with dresses.
- Fashion adaptation of uniforms. Cargo pants, combat boots, and plate carrier replicas transformed into street style.
- Reconstruction of national symbols. Embroidered tridents, protective amulet colors, handwritten fonts.
- Handmade vs mass market. Handcraft restores meaning to clothes. Ukrainians invest meaning, not just money, into their wardrobes.
"When you put on something Ukrainian, whether a vyshyvanka, a trident pendant, or national colors, don't think about how it looks. Think what it says about you. Then it will always be a style stronger than any trend," Denysiuk concluded.
