One year into Matthieu Blazy's Chanel era: Standout looks from the new Paris show
The most striking looks from Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2027 show in Paris (photo: Getty Images)
Chanel unveiled its new Spring-Summer 2027 collection in Paris. The show took place at the Grand Palais almost exactly one year after Matthieu Blazy’s high-profile debut as the fashion house’s creative director. The glass-domed venue was transformed into a fantastical night sky, with a giant moon and flocks of glowing birds suspended above the runway, while the floor was covered in an orange-and-green mirrored pattern.
The conversation with Gabrielle Chanel continues
The collection was titled "La Conversation – Part Three – Different Faces of the Same Coin."
Through his designs, Blazy explored different stages of Gabrielle Chanel’s life — from her early work with lingerie and jersey to the creation of the suit that would become one of the House's defining symbols.
"This is not a historical collection, but a collection about the multilayered stories of Gabrielle Chanel," the designer explained.
Freedom, movement and the ever-changing nature of female identity emerged as the collection’s central themes.
As a result, Chanel's signature codes took on a much lighter, more relaxed and, at times, more provocative character.
A sheer dress and Gabrielle Chanel's personal bag
The show opened with model Dianira Gorbushier wearing a sheer pink slip dress adorned with a delicate feather flower on the bodice.
Instead of carrying a new bag design, she wore Gabrielle Chanel’s personal Chanel 2.55, taken from the House’s archives.
The same model and bag returned for the show’s finale. In doing so, Blazy brought the collection full circle — from lingerie that feels like a second skin to a fresh interpretation of the legendary Chanel suit.
Tweed that moves with the body
One of the collection's key innovations was a material dubbed smocked tweed. It looks like classic Chanel tweed but has an elastic structure that stretches easily and feels almost like athletic knitwear.
The updated tweed was used for suits featuring cropped jackets and skirts in a variety of silhouettes.
One standout was a black look with a fitted jacket and narrow knee-length skirt — a modern take on the classic Chanel suit.
The most striking looks from Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2027 show in Paris (photo: Getty Images)
The idea, according to Blazy, was for the Chanel suit to feel as effortless to wear as an everyday T-shirt.
Sheer suits and exposed skin
The collection featured cream and black suits made from sheer fabrics decorated with flowers and beads.
In other looks, dense tweed was combined with mesh, revealing sections of skin.
The designer paired these pieces with menswear-inspired vests, wide-leg trousers, raw-edged jackets and pencil-skirt suits.
Masculine tailoring became a way to emphasize femininity rather than conceal it.
Tiger print takes the place of understated classics
The boldest take on tweed came in a red-and-white tiger print. The wild pattern appeared on jackets, suits and Chanel’s signature two-tone shoes.
It was joined by leopard-print pumps with contrasting light-colored toes, blue-and-silver styles and chunky sandals featuring the House’s gold logo.
The most striking looks from Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2027 Paris show (photo: Getty Images)
Cloud-covered parachute dresses
Among the most dramatic looks were voluminous parachute dresses.
Sheer silk printed with clouds was layered to create the illusion of a sky changing throughout the day.
The collection moved through different skies — morning blue, golden hour and the deep colors of night.
Anok Yai closed this series in a constellation-print dress that almost disappeared into the Grand Palais set design.
The most striking looks from Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2027 Paris show (photo: Getty Images)
Ballet skirts and corsets
Blazy also explored ballet-inspired aesthetics. He paired voluminous, multilayered tulle skirts with corset tops, bare shoulders and details inspired by Edwardian fashion.
The looks evoked the costumes of the Ballets Russes, but instead of literal theatricality, the designer offered light, contemporary silhouettes that could be broken down into individual pieces.
The most striking looks from Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2027 Paris show (photo: Getty Images)
Clouds, birds and updated bags
The theme of flight continued through the accessories. Birds appeared on buttons, jewelry and embroidery, while the classic quilted bags were joined by cloud-shaped designs and a miniature birdcage bag, seemingly emptied by birds taking flight.
Other standout accessories included zebra-print bags, contrasting color inserts and new takes on the classic flap bag.
The show ended to Britney Spears’ “Gimme More.” After the final look, Matthieu Blazy ran onto the runway, while Dua Lipa, Nicole Kidman, Pedro Pascal, Ayo Edebiri, Marion Cotillard and Alexa Demie applauded from the audience.
